Beyond The Arctic Circle
Famous Dempster Highway
There is only one all-season public road to cross the Arctic Circle in Canada and that is the famous Dempster Highway. This 736km unpaved two-lane highway ranks among the world’s most interesting driving routes not only because of its unique construction but mainly because of its breathtaking scenery and wildlife viewing opportunities.
Even though I had only 10 days off work, I decided to drive to the Arctic Ocean all the way from Calgary. Yes, 7500 kilometers in ten days may seem like a self-imposed masochistic punishment but commiserate with me no more. One might think that I spent my whole time behind the steering wheel but my trip was packed with adventure! I spent 4 days on Dempster, camped on a beach in Tuktoyaktuk, swam in Beaufort Sea, visited Dawson and the famous Gold Dredge #4 on Bonanza Creek, took a boat trip on Mackenzie River delta, soaked in Liard River hot springs, flew an old DC3, saw many wild animals, and had a heart-stopping black bear encounter at a close range.
Some of the wild animals that I had the privilege to see during my trip were: grizzly bear, black bear, moose, buffalo, caribou, deer, lynx, beluga whales, porcupine, coyote, and a fox.
During my whole trip, I camped alone in the wilderness on forest roads, various hidden spots or dry creek beds. One evening, when I was about 200 kilometers south of Dawson City, I decided to camp near a small creek. I pitched my tent close to my car in case I needed to perform a quick retreat to safety. The next morning, just before I was about to get up, I heard some noises pretty close to my tent. I knew right away that it was a large animal, possibly a moose or a bear. I got out of my sleeping bag, opened my car remotely, unzipped the tent flap, and got slowly out. As I turned around, there was a black bear standing 3 meters away from my tent, staring at me. It was a surprise for both of us. We both stood motionless, staring at each other over the top of my tent. For some reason, there was no panic. Our eyes were locked for a few seconds as if we were extending respectful greetings to each other. After this short standoff, the bear turned around and started to walk towards the bushes. I didn’t dare to move until the bear disappeared. Then I quickly packed my stuff and left his territory. What a moment in life!
I think I can say that I am a fairly experienced outdoors-man who knows quite a lot about bears. I understand very well that these magnificent creatures are highly unpredictable and that any close-range encounter with them in the wilderness is extremely dangerous. Let’s say, I was lucky again this time! The bear was curious rather than ferocious…
