Ol Doinyo Lengai Climb
I climbed Ol Doinyo Lengai, the “Mountain of God”, an active volcano located in northeastern Tanzania near Lake Natron. This 2895m (9498ft) high stratovolcano is unique for its thin, silvery looking lava rich with carbonatite, which can flow faster than a person can run. The last large eruption occurred in 2007, but occasional rumbling activity, lava spills, and ash emissions suggest the next eruption could be near.
I climbed this mountain with a local Maasai guide and admittedly, in some ways, it was more demanding than Kilimanjaro. Even though this mountain is only half as high as Kilimanjaro, climbing it requires twice as much stamina and overall fitness. Thanks to the eroded and very rugged lava flows, the route up the mountain cannot zigzag. Going sideways would mean climbing and descending numerous burn scars and cracks created by fast flowing lava, and further eroded by water rushing down the mountain during the rainy seasons. The only way to achieve the top is to scramble straight up. This relentless overnight climb starts at 1200m above sea level and it feels like climbing uneven stairs continuously for 5 hours to finally reach the perfectly formed rim of the active crater. Once there, fresh daylight not only reveals some incredible views but also the fact that going back down will be even harder.
The crater is inaccessible but quite beautiful, ominous looking, and smells of sulfur. Soon it’s time to turn around and force your already screaming muscles to descend through treacherous, often slippery, ash-covered rock. Some portions have to be descended as slowly and deliberately as they were ascended. There is simply no quick escape from the sun and its heat, which spreads quickly over the dark lava surface. The whole climb would certainly be more spectacular during daylight, but the scorching temperatures would make it unbearable. In short, it is a unique mountain to climb, an amazing experience, and one of the highlights of my whole African adventure.
